A Food Lover’s Travel Guide to Eating Through Ecuador
From roasted guinea pig to the most delicious ceviche, Ecuador offers a diverse range of regional cuisine for your palate. Shaped by its geography and history, the country's food culture varies by region and is generally divided into three culinary traditions: Serrano (the Andes Mountains), Costeño (the Coast), and Amazonía (the Amazon Rainforest). Despite being one of South America's smaller countries, Ecuador is home to a remarkable range of landscapes. With chilly Andean volcanoes reaching over 6,000 meters (more than 20,000 feet) above sea level, to stretches of Pacific coastline, and the biodiversity of the Amazon Rainforest, its varied landscapes have helped shape the distinct culinary traditions found throughout the country.
terrace views of Loja Peguche Waterfall in Otovalo, Ecuador Quito Historic Center Playa Murcielago at sunset
This culinary guide, designed to help you eat your way through the center of the Earth, includes my personal foodie opinions on nearly everything I ate during my six-month journey through Ecuador. This isn't an encyclopedia of every Ecuadorian dish, but it's pretty close. If I missed something, let me know in the comments below and share your experience.
This guide is organized by the regions and cities I visited during my six months in Ecuador. While Ecuador's cuisine is generally divided by the regional traditions mentioned, I spent most of my time exploring the Costeño and Serrano regions.
One thing you'll encounter throughout much of the country is the menu del día, a daily lunch special that typically includes soup, a main dish, drink, and sometimes dessert.
Which region do you think has the best cuisine? And can you guess which one ended up being my favorite?
Serrano Region (The Mountains)
Loja was my first introduction to the gastronomy of the Serrano region. This southern province bordering Peru is known as the music and culture capital of Ecuador and well-known as the Valley of Longevity where the people live to be over 100 years old. Like many Latin American countries, here you will find tamales, a mix of ground corn, sometimes with pork or chicken. In this city situated in the mountain valley, you will find a similar traditional dish called humitas, made with cheese and a native variety of corn known as choclo.
breakfast of tigrillo and coffee breakfast of chicken tamale with coffee breakfast dish of bolon with cheese and chicharron
As the largest exporter of plantain and banana, it's no wonder so many Ecuadorian dishes feature this versatile ingredient. One local breakfast favorite is bolon de verde, mashed green plantain prepared with chicharron (pork crackling), cheese, or a mix of both. You will also find tigrillo, cubed green plantain with onion, cheese, egg, and chicharron. All you need to add is a cup of hot coffee!
While on the topic of coffee, Ecuador's generous climate produces some of the world's top quality Arabica and Robusta coffee strains. You'll experience different flavor profiles depending on the region it’s grown in.
Loja is known for its high acidity with sweet and fruity notes while the coastal region has more mild flavor with notes of chocolate and roasted almond.
Coffee in Loja is often served using a traditional chuspa, a cloth filter used to brew coffee by slowly pouring hot water through freshly ground beans. The result is a clean, aromatic cup that reflects the region's long coffee-growing tradition.
Though much of the food in Loja lacked the flavor I was hoping for, the coffee, fresh produce, and panaderías (bakeries) were always a hit. I realized the dishes I didn't like needed a second chance at a new location or a different city.
But I would be failing in my gastronomic review — and doing you a disservice — if I fail to mention the restaurants that saw me several times throughout my time here. The artisanal ice cream shops, specifically Angelus by Tutto Freddo and Cherry Beans were my (sometimes bi-weekly) favorites! Gatella has some of the best cinnamon rolls I've eaten with unique flavors that you may not find elsewhere.
Milo chocolate ice cream on a code sign of Angelus by Tutto Freddo a waffle bowl of pistachio and chocolate
While exploring the Loja province, I took a weekend trip to Vilcabamba which is home to Izhcayluma Eco Resort and El Mexicano, a Mexican restaurant that offers a special dish I was recommended to try... pad thai. Yes, a Thai dish at a Mexican restaurant.. and it was delicious! The chef learned to perfect this dish in Thailand so it's the closest thing to authentic pad thai in the Loja province. You won't find it on the menu.. so just ask!
Another restaurant I frequented was Papa Krunch which had the absolute best bbq fried wings and fries! Brasa y Lena, which is technically traditional Costeña food, had great flavor and affordable large portion sizes. This restaurant chain was a sure indicator of how I'd feel about the food on the coast.
Fried bbq wings over fries with a variety of dipping sauces Plate of fried shrimp, white rice, seasoned potatoes, and salad with lime on a restaurant table
Next in the Serrano region is Cuenca, Ecuador. This Spanish colonial city is one of the top destinations recommended by locals and foreigners.
With only four days here, I continued eating fresh fruit and traditional dishes, including Chifa, or Ecuadorian-Chinese fried rice. While exploring the markets you will also have many opportunities to eat dulce de durazno (peaches in syrup) and huevos chilenos, a fluffy fried dough ball tossed in sugar.
a plate of Ecuadorian Chinese fried rice with shrimp, chicken, pork topped with plantain whole peeled peaches in syrup with cinnamon sticks fried dough balls covered in sugar on a street cart a cart of fresh fruits, mangos, watermelon, and coconut
Are you a chocolate lover like me? Then you have to try the desserts at Dos Chorreras Chocolatería in the historic center. They have basic, but tasty lunch options and a full dessert menu including this famous volcano cake which features molten chocolate inside a rich chocolate cake served with vanilla ice cream.
sign of popular chocolate shop in Cuenca, Ecuador chocolate molten cake with vanilla ice cream chips and a chicken and veggie sandwich
Because of its international flair, there are a number of diverse cuisines available from all over the world. As a true pad thai lover, I savored a more authentic rendition of the dish at Thai Lotus. Its authenticity originating from the owner, born and raised in Thailand, who brought her tradition and its spice to Cuenca.
Some honorable mentions for restaurants in Cuenca include El Confesionario, located in Seminario San Luis, for nice pasta dishes, Le Petit Palace for lunch or jazz happy hour overlooking Parque Calderon, and Negroni for the drinks and rooftop views of the cathedral.
a plate of alfredo pasta with shrimp and french bread nighttime view of the catedral from a rooftop restaurant a plate of salmon and french fries with a side salad a lit sign of Le Petit Jazz Club
Quito, the country's capital sitting high in the sky at 2,850 meters (9,350 feet), is home to several UNESCO World Heritage sites and culinary options that include traditional foods and their modern iterations. Because I was volunteering in Quito with meals provided, I had traditional lunch prepared daily which often included salad, chicken or pork, rice and potatoes (yes, both!), choclo, and a variety of fresh juices like tomate de árbol, a tangy tree tomato, and maracuya (passionfruit). Fritada, my favorite thing to eat here and in the Serrano region, is a common dish of fried pork served with rice and salad.
Late nights called for small bites like pinchos, a grilled kebab of meat and potatoes or the popular salchipapas, a hot dog over fries and salad served with mayo and ketchup.
Here are some honorable mentions from the Andes mountain region:
Hornado - roasted pig often served with choclo and salad
Viche - a fish stew popular during Holy Week in April
Cevichocho - a vegetarian ceviche made with lupin beans
Espuma - fluffy and sweet whipped egg white dessert
Locro de papas - a classic potato stew with cheese
Costeño Region (The Coast)
Some of Ecuador’s most well-known dishes come from this region — and it just so happened to be my personal favorite during my time in the country. The coast is home to many Ecuadorian staples like encebollado, a fish and onion soup prepared with yuca. My first time trying this dish was in Loja (later learning that was a disgrace and a mistake) and I really didn't like it. Trying it again in Olón, one of my favorite coastal towns in the Santa Elena province, was an entirely new experience, quickly becoming a staple, specifically for breakfast after a night of drinking.
a bowl of soup made with fresh tuna, onion, and yuca with a side of plantain chips a bowl of fish and onion soup topped with a drizzle of mustard
Another coastal breakfast staple is bollo. A tamale-style dish wrapped in banana leaf containing green banana, annatto, peanuts, and albacore tuna. Eating this early morning on the beach at low tide with a side of steamed rice and spicy pickled onion was pure bliss.
Speaking of eating on the beach, your visit is not complete without eating ceviche. A fresh citrus blend of seafood, onion, tomato, cilantro, and love. Most ceviches are made with white fish but you will also find ceviche mixto which often has fish, shrimp, calamari, and clams served with plantain chips.
a ceviche cart on a cloudy beach shore a bowl of ceviche with a side of plantains and pepper sauce
There is no ceviche like the ceviche in the Manabí province. Let's be honest, Manabí has some of the most flavorful dishes out of all 9 cities I traveled to. Ceviche Manaba, originating in Jipijapa, is served with peanut paste and/or crushed peanuts with a side of avocado.
Tonga is another traditional Manabí dish prepared with rice, stewed chicken, sweet fried plantains covered in a rich peanut sauce. Are you seeing the Manabí/peanut relation here? You'll find peanuts woven into both savory and sweet dishes throughout Manabí due to its long-standing culinary traditions and ideal climate conditions.
That connection came to life at the Iche School in San Vicente, where we were taken through the gastronomic history of Manabí — learning traditional cooking techniques, exploring how ingredients are cultivated locally, and seeing how upcoming chefs are reimagining ancestral dishes today. The experience was complete with a six-course tasting menu that tied it all together.
a picture of a postcard of chefs cooking over fire smoked ribs in a coconut sauce topped with fresh herbs a traditional open fire cooking method used all types of food preparation a bowl of peanuts and corn reflecting the Manabí culture a chocolate and peanut paste sweet potato and plantain chips a green salad with candied peanuts and oranges empanada made with cassava and a popular cheese from Chone a peanut and chocolate dessert with pechiche jam a variety of homemade liquors and spirits a chalkboard drawing of the Iche school
Other coastal dishes to try during your time in Ecuador include cocolone, a layer of crispy, toasted rice often served with meat. I had cocolone from Tatu Beach Club in Santa Marianita prepared with crab and shrimp in a savory coconut sauce. Not to mention, one of the best sunset views in Manta!
a sunlit seat with a sign of Tatu Beach Club a plate of crispy rice topped with savory coconut sauce a beach after sunset of blue, orange, pink, and indigo
Gato encerrado, a ripe batter-fried plantain stuffed with cheese and topped with green mayo, is a sweet and savory beach snack you must try. You will likely find vendors selling snacks from rolling carts along the beach along with donuts, cocados, a sweet chewy coconut candy, pastel de chorizo, a crispy puff pastry filled with chorizo, and corviche, a fried green plantain croquette with fish, usually between $0.50 and $1.50.
battered and fried plantain topped with cheese and cilantro mayo drizzle
Honorable mentions for your coastal gastronomy guide to Ecuador include:
Chupe de pescado - a flavorful fish stew often prepared with fried fish along with potato, carrots, and corn
a yellow stew with fried fish, corn, carrots and herbs
Cevichifle - ceviche on the go inside a bag of chifles (plantain chips)
a bag of plantain chips ceviche inside a bag of plantain chips
El Meson Restaurant for happy hour cocktails and the best Asian-style short rib tacos a foodie could ask for
a spicy pineapple margarita Asian-style short rib tacos in wonton shell
Deli Morocho, 30+ years of tradition in Ecuador, popular for empandas and morocho, a hot corn drink simmered with milk, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves served with raisins
a sign of morocho, a warm corn drink with raisins beef and cheese empanadas with morocho
La Ola Fish Market in Playita Mia for your selection of fresh-caught seafood and many restaurant stalls serving coastal dishes.
outside view of Manta's fish market restaurant menu of ceviche a bowl of ceviche with a side of peanut paste
Amazonía Region (The Amazon)
Unlike the coast and the highlands, I haven't had the opportunity to visit Ecuador's Amazon region. While my personal experience didn't include this biodiverse area, no guide to Ecuadorian cuisine would be complete without mentioning the rich cultural heritage and culinary traditions.
Preserved by Quechua and Shuar indigenous groups, Amazonian cuisine is often centered around freshwater fish, cassava, and nutrient-rich insects like chontacuro, grilled or fried worms often served on a skewer or wrapped in banana leaf.
Another popular traditional dish is maito de pescado, made with catfish, tilapia or another local fish, wrapped in bijao leaves. These leaves are similar to banana leaves, with more flexibility and a distinct earthy aromatic flavor.
a plate of rice, beans, whole fish, cassava, and a salad full leaves of bijao plant
Did you know Ecuador's Amazon region is a world leader in the production of fine aroma cacao? It is home to rare and native strains of cacao which are exclusively harvested by indigenous women's groups. Due to its high-humidity and volcanic soil, the Amazon basin produces many sought-after flavor profiles including earthy, floral, and nutty flavors. Across Ecuador, many artisan chocolate makers trace their roots back to this region.
Huma Chocolate tasting a sign of cacao with history of its growing and harvesting process multiple Ecuadorian artifacts about chocolate
Six months and countless plates later, Ecuador has left its mark in more ways than one. Every region, city, and town adds its own voice to Ecuadorian cuisine, highlighting the diversity of the Coast, the Andes, and the Amazon, with ingredients that reflect the country’s traditional dishes and culinary identity.
Ready to eat your way through Ecuador? Sign up to get early access to my upcoming Ecuador Food Passport, a downloadable guide to fill your belly with traditional dishes, regional specialties, restaurant recommendations, and memorable food experiences.
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